Phillip Calmer has been farming on his 150-year-old family farm in northwest Iowa for half a century. Today, he and his wife Jody grow 1,200 acres of corn and soybeans, raise pigs outdoors, and support three staff members including their sons. But the Calmers emphasize that their family-scale, independent farm is not typical for Iowa.
“Nothing is like it was when we were growing up,” says Phillip. “Main Street would be fuller on the weekends. We had a theater and two or three grocery stores, bars, and clothing stores. And now, it’s all gone…It’s like that all over [rural Iowa]. Every town’s struggling.”
Iowa is the top hog-producing state in the United States, producing almost one-third of the country’s pork. But widespread farm consolidation has contributed to the deterioration of many rural communities. According to the U.S. Census of Agriculture data, from 1982 to 2017, the state’s hog production tripled while the number of farms with hogs fell by 86 percent.
“[These large companies] own millions of hogs…the hogs have never seen the light of day. They are totally closed up. It’s just like being in jail,” says Phillip.
Raising pigs humanely and in the fresh air and sunshine was never a question for the Calmers. “It’s the only way we know how,” Phillip says, but in an area dominated by confinement farms, “it’s really very, very unconventional.”
This philosophy fit well with Niman Ranch, a network of more than 600 small to mid-sized, independent family farmers and ranchers that uphold high standards of sustainable and humane farming practices in exchange for access to a stable, premium market for their products. Phillip and Jody joined Niman Ranch more than 10 years ago. They say that without it, they would not be able to make a living off farming alone.
“I might be a truck driver or something,” says Phillip. “Because there isn’t any money in commercial hog farming.”
Phillip explains that corn and soybean crop prices fluctuate each season depending on the market. But Niman Ranch assures a guaranteed price for the Calmers’ naturally raised pigs, regardless of the conventional hog market, which gives the family freedom through financial stability.
The company’s social support has also been invaluable to their farm: “When you’re on your own, there isn’t a support network, there’s nobody to fall back on,” says Jody. “With Niman Ranch, you are part of a community of farmers with likeminded ideas and practices. If we have questions, there is always someone there to answer or offer suggestions. You learn a lot.”
This education relates to both hog and human health, the Calmers say. The company hosts farmer events where acclaimed chefs serve unique dishes using the farmers’ pork, emphasizing fresh, seasonal, and local ingredients. Now, Phillip and Jody are more conscious about the quality and ingredients of the food they serve at home.
For the Calmers, partnering with Niman Ranch allows them to continue a generations-long family tradition. Phillip’s late father—who gave him hogs to raise before he was 10 years old—continues to inspire his work after 50 years of farming. The Calmers hope that they can pass that legacy and passion for the animals and land to the next generation.
“[It’s rewarding] to know that you’re feeding people a quality product…Not too many people had the opportunity that I did,” says Phillip.
“Niman Ranch has given us the opportunity to succeed at what we love to do.”
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Photo courtesy of the Calmers
